TWIGGY: THE FACE OF 60’s
Legendary mod model Lesley Hornby (better known as TWIGGY), has blue eyes. At 16 in the mid 60’s, she was the first internationally-known supermodel.
Signaturely thin – androgynous – with a boyish frame and hairstyle and irresistibly cute expressions dominated fashion magazines of the 60’s. She became hugely popular after a photo shoot with photographer Barry Lategan, and she is known for creating and popularizing the mod fashion trend.
Twiggy’s body was known for its boyish shape and bony limbs.
The 60s was the decade in which runway modelling became very important to high fashion. The models of this decade were much less womanly with their boy-like figures than models of the previous decade who had shapely curves, and these new models’ bodies were bony and hanger-like (“The Rise and Fall”).
She was a drastic change from the healthy image of an hourglass shape Marilyn Monroe conveyed during the 50s. In addition to the growing importance of runway modelling, the 60s was also a period in which American society pushed back against traditional values of the previous decade. The counter-culture of the 60s was characterized by “long hair, rock music…tye-dye, free sex, drugs, and riots” (“The Counter-culture”). Twiggy’s striking and unusual look brought her popularity in this counter-culture.
Twiggy was a major trendsetter in America during the 60s, even though she hailed from England. Her beautiful eyes and simple, mod style greatly influenced fashion in Britain and America at that time and continues to do so. Even today, she is still the face of the 60’s in the U.K. The ambiguous Twiggy was the face that adorned the cultural revolution.
THE FIVE FACES OF TWIGGY
What is The Face of Sixty-Six! It’s a face from the past, a face from the history books of movies, a face from Garbo and Harlow- The Face of The Great Days of Hollywood. We let Twiggy loose among a pile of faded film-stills and a collection of cosmetics. We said: ‘Give us the once-and-for-all, the ultimate Hollywood Look.’ This is Twiggy’s reply…she composed her own make-up, and Leonard styled her hair with wigs.
One of the five faces of Twiggy..This version is inspired by Ginger Rogers. Twiggy’s white tie, tails and top hat are from Berman’s, the theatrical costumers, her shoes are from Charles Jordan.
Twiggy’s Ginger Rogers look…Complexion: Mary Quant’s Bare Light Starker make-up (worn without a powder for the necessary light, pale skin-tone). Eyes: lashes cut from a strip of Loads of Lash (applied in twos and threes); Brown Liquid shadow (in the creases); Transparent Eye Gloss (on the lids); and Black Tear proof Liquid mascara (applied in abundance on the lashes). Lips: Sexpot Red lipstick, with Lip Gloss over it.
Marilyn Monroe is the inspiration for this make-up…Complexion: Elizabeth Arden’s Peach Perfect Finish foundation and Transparent powder (for smooth, matt covering to Twiggy’s freckles). Eyes: Silver Fox Creamy Eye shadow powder (in the creases); Sun Gold Cake Eye shadow (on the brow bones); Black Cake eye-liner (for a thin line behind the lashes-and the beauty spot); and Extra Thick lashes. Lips: Mexican Fire lipstick (a brilliant crimson) and a little Ardena Highlighter (to emphasise the cupid’s bow). Her ear-rings are from Fortnum & Mason.
Twiggy’s Greta Garbo look make-up...Complexion: Estee Lauder’s Bare Beige pale foundation and Sun Film powder (pressed well into the foundation for a smooth finish). Eyes: Twiggy’s own brows (brushed into a very fine line) plus Evening Brown Black Cake liner (to extend the tin arched line, and, in a slightly thicker line in the creases); White frost shadow (on the lids); and lashes (put on in twos and threes between her own). Lips: Evening Black lipstick (mixed with a little eye-liner for a darker upper lip). The hat is by Brian Harris, and the fur is by Maxwell Croft.
Twiggy wears a red Rita Hayworth-style wig for this transformation…Complexion: Lancôme’s 03 foundation (a gold tone); Magie Foncée face powder; and Moderato Fard see powder rouge (for colour high on the cheekbones). Eyes: a blend of Aurorae and Vert shadow (on the lids); Brun 73 pencil (to outline the brows); and Twiggy’s own lashes mascaraed with a pair of exceptionally long long ones, using Dark Brown Lancomatic. Lips: Incarnadine lipstick. The ear-rings are from Fortnum & Mason, and the leopard skin is by Maxwell Croft.
Twiggy’s dramatic Theda Bara look…Complexion: Helena Rubenstein’s Opaline Silk foundation; Silk Highlights (on the cheekbones); and Opalescent powder (for an alabaster skin-tone). Eyes: Tender Greige eye-shadow (notice how Twiggy keeps her eyes open while brushing it on, otherwise the shading would be too low to show when the eyes were open); Lumina Blue (on lids); Black eye-liner; and Black Fashion Brow. Back-drop design is by Julie Hodgess.
TWIGGY’S IMPACT ON SOCIETY
Twiggy, rose to fame suddenly in 1966 after Daily Express journalist Deidre McSharry spotted a portrait of her famous cropped hair cut in a London hair salon and requested a meeting with the 16-year old Londonite.
Twiggy stood 5’6″ tall and weighed barely 90 pounds. ‘She will last a couple of weeks’, a bystander quipped in 1967 when she took New York by storm. Fifty years on and Twiggy is still a force to be reckoned with in the fashion world. She became the idol for millions of teenage girls of the sixties revolution. She was among the most photographed people of the 60s, and quickly became a fashion icon, helping promote the little boy/little girl look that was so popular then, which was a far cry from the previous curvy, more sophisticated look models had sported.
With her waif like figure, boyish hair cut and striking eye lashes she created an image that would epitomize an era. By the age of 17, Twiggy was one of the most famous faces on the planet: her photograph was even encased in a time capsule and sent into space. By this time in the sixties, Twiggy had already become a household name across the globe, an icon whose image graced the covers of Vogue, Tatler and even her own American publication Her Mod, Mod Teen World. During her years as a model.
Twiggy posed for some of the top photographers, including Barry Lategan, Melvin Sokolsky, Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton and Bert Stern who made three films about her extraordinary trip to the United States in 1967.
Twiggy’s lack of curves made waves throughout the fashion industry. And also her popularity not only influenced many people to try and imitate her look, but also drastically influenced the rise in power of models in the same industry. Twiggy was the pivotal woman who paved the way for the top models, and changed the face and body of fashion models. With her boyish haircut and a figure so slim that a bust is hardly visible, she invaded a world which once seemed reserved for older upper class ladies and emerged as the first truly class top models. She reflects neither the cool good looks of Anita Colby in the 1930’s, nor the ‘tennis anyone’ freshness of Jinx Falkenburg in the 1950’s. Going from the 50’s where women like Marilyn Monroe and others had curves to the late 60’s where twig-thin was the new in was a huge change.
Twiggy paved the way for models like Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer, all of whom opened highly successful restaurants and endorsed exercise tapes, clothes, calendars, posters and many other products.
She may have positively affected the power of the supermodel, but her success became one of the underlying factors behind society’s obsession with ultra-thin bodies and the increase in women resorting to eating disorders. The industry has been idealizing such extreme slenderness, placing an immediately negative effect on a
“normal” woman’s self-esteem and encouraging them to hate their bodies, which eventually leads to dangerous methods of losing weight. Over three-fourths of professional models have body weight below normal and about one-fourth of them meet the criteria for anorexia nervous, a life- threatening disease.
When Twiggy was a child, her mother was worried about her weight, and even took her to numerous doctors, who concluded that the thinness was simply a result of her body type.
Even 40 years later, many models strive to be as thin and waif-like as Twiggy.
Since being described as the face of ’66, has led an exciting new glamorous life. She has played many parts- model, actress, singer, wife and mother. She has had her ups and downs with Twiggy’s ability to regulate re-invent herself has always made her a survivor. She was a normal gal with an amazing history. Twiggy’s world really turned upside down when she was just 16 year old, Lesley Hornby.
In 1967, Twiggy visited the United States for the first time and when she landed at the Kennedy Airport, she was greeted with an incredible fan followers. She was the Brit sensation that everyone wanted to see. When she began, all of the girls wanted to be her and all of the guys wanted to take care of her.
TWIGGY LASHES GONE MODERN
In the Swinging Sixties, in contrast with paler eye-shadows, foundations and rouges all emphasis went on eye-liners and lashes. False eyelashes applied with lashings of mascara were made particularly popular by Twiggy. To further exaggerate and dramatize her eyes, Twiggy paints on her lower lashes.
For a time lipsticks took second place to the eye. Everyone was so inspired by Twiggy’s Lashes, that each an every teenager was trying to adapt that style. It was popular not only in London but in America too.
TWIGGY’S DRESSES
Twiggy truly changed the modelling world. Mod fashion became extremely popular among females all because of her. Twiggy often included neon coloured minis, Mary Janes short boots, or “Twiggy Dresses.” Twiggy’s mod wardrobe consisted of mini- and micro-mini skirts and dresses with simple and bold patterns, shapes, and colours. This style is attributed to Mary Quant, a British fashion designer credited with the invention of the mini-skirt. Quant is also known for bright, bold shades on eyes, lips, and nails – a style sometimes referred to as “Paint Box” make-up.
Mary Quant invented mini-skirt and this is what all begins in the 1960s fashion. Dresses were becoming shorter and shorter every day until they were covering very short part of the legs. Pop art brought geometric patterns and two-coloured (mostly black-white) dresses. Mini-dresses were often worn with long tight boots. Stripes, dots and other geometrical patterns were everywhere; they decorated the skirts, dresses, blouses… Twiggy encouraged not only this style, but also young people to play with fashion. Post-war generation were the first to have money to buy records, new clothes and make up. That was ideal because there were dozens of new styles being invented every day. Twiggy was known as “The Queen of Mod” and she was “The Face of 1966.”
TWIGGY CLOTHING
In the 60s, the thought of a model taking advantage of her success to start a fruitful business was completely revolutionary. As a designer, Twiggy has her own successful clothing line featured in the Littlewoods catalogue. She allowed her name to be used on a line of clothing, accessories, cosmetics and even dolls.
Twiggy and Justin, a man who took a month to translate an idea into the reality of Twiggy models. They started producing 15,000 Twiggy dresses and suits every week. Exploitation has been so intensive and so skillful, that Twiggy was so confident of winning an orders worth million dollars. Twiggy, top model was becoming Twiggy Enterprises Unlimited. Also, she has recently launched her own range of bed linen. For a model to become a business unto herself was revolutionary.
Her impact didn’t stop there. Twiggy charged an outrageous hourly rate- as much as $240. In the 50’s, top models such as Suzy Parker made a mere $40 an hour. Twiggy in the 60’s was becoming successful, specially internationally. She was somewhere becoming a mini queen of the new social world.
FASHIONISTA CLANGERS WERE INSPIRED BY TWIGGY
In addition to her modelling career, her influence was also seen on runways and television. The magical worlds of children’s television series created by Oliver Postgate and Peter Firmin suggests the Clangers costume were inspired by Paco Rabanne as worn by Twiggy.
Alice Sage, curator of the display at the V&A’s Museum of Childhood in east London, said Joan Firmin, wife of Peter and dresser of the Clangers, told her that the costumes were based on a photograph she had seen of Twiggy in the 60s.
THE MODELLING YEARS
1966-1970
She’s exactly the right look at the right time, and the right look is seventeen and starved. She was a role model and revolutionary for today’s top models too, but her popularity also brought along with it the irrational image of the ideal woman.
1966
Twiggy is named the Face Of ’66 by the Daily Express.
Twiggy’s slim figure and short, boyish hair represented youthfulness and the new-found Sixties freedom.
Twiggy records her first single ‘Beautiful Dreams’ for Ember records, released in the UK and then distributed throughout the world.
Twiggy releases her first line of clothing called “Twiggy Dresses.” Clothes should be for every age. Her range was aimed at the teenage market.
1967
Twiggy makes the promotional trip to New York. While in the US, Bert Stern makes three documentaries about her visit ‘Twiggy In New York’, ‘Twiggy In Hollywood’ and ‘Twiggy, Why?’ for the ABC network. Legendary songwriters Leiber & Stoller even penned the theme song for the documentaries ‘I’ll Remember You – Twiggy’.
Twiggy graces the covers of various American magazines, Vogue, Newsweek, Harpers Bazaar etc.
Twiggy’s own magazine is published in the US under the title Twiggy: Her Mod Mod Teen World.
Mattel release the original Twiggy Barbie doll.
In the UK, the Independent television network Granada, film their own documentary, titled ‘Twiggy’. The documentary showed Twiggy at home with her family and modelling for Vogue.
1968
Twiggy makes a promotional visit to Japan where her single Beautiful Dreams reaches the top spot. She is featured in a fashion show at the Budokwai Stadium and films commercials for Toyota cars and Choco Flakes.
Twiggy poses as screen icons Marilyn Monroe, Ginger Rogers, Greta Garbo, Theda Bara and Rita Hayworth for Queen magazine.
Twiggy Dresses are launched in Germany, involving a promotional visit to Munich.
1969
Twiggy films a commercial for Diet Rite Cola directed by Melvin Sokolsky, the advertisement sees her singing and dancing.
Twiggy is the youngest person to be featured on the TV show, This Is Your Life, broadcast on ITV in December.
Twiggy is cast by Ken Russell in his film version of ‘The Boy Friend’ as a result Twiggy retires from her modelling career.
END OF MODELLING
Though many people see Twiggy as just a model, she is really much more. At the ripe old age of twenty, she retired and began focusing on her television shows, acting and singing career. Although Twiggy’s modelling career only lasted four years and officially retired from modelling in 1970 when she was cast in Ken Russell’s film “The Boy Friend”, for which she won two Golden Globe awards; most promising newcomer and best actress in a musical, she has been involved in various modelling assignments, highlights include posing with David Bowie to create the classic shot that became the cover of his Pin Ups album. She has recorded many albums since, encompassing a variety of styles including pop, rock, disco, country and show tunes. She came out with two music albums; Twiggy and Please Get My Name Right. One of the hits on her second album, Here I Go Again, climbed up to number two on the UK hit charts. Twiggy’s successful recordings have earned her two silver discs, two chart albums and hit singles.
Since 2005, Twiggy has acted as the face of Marks And Spencer in their successful advertising campaigns.
Twiggy has also been a guest judge on the top US reality show America’s Next Top Model opposite the shows creator Tyra Banks.
Twiggy also loves to help society. She campaigns for anti-fur and animal abuse and donates for breast cancer research.
Identifying Vintage Twiggy Doll & Clothes
Twiggy with her doll
Twiggy was soon considered iconic of the decade, and her name was marketed as a brand in connection with a string of products including a Twiggy doll. Twiggy was the first Mattel doll fashioned after a real person. She has heavy eye make-up. She was on the market in late 1967-1968. Each and every teenage girl was so in for the Twiggy dolls, that they were buying Twiggy dolls every now and then. The market was flooded with Twiggy dolls.
Five tagged outfits were created exclusively for Twiggy and released in 1968.
Twiggy dolls
1185 Twiggy Twist ‘N Turn doll (1967-1968)
Blonde hair, rooted eyelashes, twist N turn waist, bendable legs. Outfit is a yellow, blue and green large-vertical striped mini dress with nylon panties and yellow boots.
1725 Twiggy-Dos (1968)
A vertical ribbed knit sleeveless dress in yellow with green and white bands around the hip-line, yellow knit socks, yellow bow shoes, green and white beaded double strand necklace and shiny yellow vinyl purse with a golden chain.
1726 Twiggy Turnouts (1968)
A sleeveless metallic skirted mini dress, multicolour striped bodice also metallic, a wide silver belt at the hip and grey vinyl boots painted metallic silver.
1727 Twigster (1968)
Sleeveless orange and yellow check mini dress, matching scarf, orange purse and orange heels with cut-outs.
1728 Twiggy Gear (1968)
White and knit jumpsuit, rose floppy hat, blue plastic belt, black plastic camera, royal blue soft buckle flat shoes.
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